Staithe Road, Ludham remembered by
one of its oldest inhabitants.
As recalled by Nona
Nivea Green (neé Dashwood-Howard)
This
memory was written in 2000. In June 2019 when this
was posted, Nona was still alive and over 100 years
old and living in a nursing home in Hickling.
Nona Nivea Dashwood-Howard sitting on her
mother's knee in 1922
Nona Nivea aged 18 - 19/12/1937
My parents came
to live in Ludham in about 1925. (Note - we think this was actully
about 1919) Before this, they had a
holiday home in the village; their next door neighbour
was a Miss Lamb. “The Mowle” was two cottages with
gooseberry bushes in the front garden. On the other
side of the road were two lovely old cottages (Tudor?)
in which lived Mrs Rope and her daughter Miss
Brunning. The latter went to South Africa in her youth
with a family for whom she worked as a servant, from,
I think, the age of eight. She brought me back an
ostrich egg which I still have.
The Mowle. Home of the Dashwood-Howards in Ludham
We used to go to
the farm every morning to get milk in a tin can. The
milk was just poured into the can, never measured! The
Bucks had the farm in those days. Mrs Rachel Buck was
very house-proud; we were not allowed in the house
until newspaper had been put on the floor! The lane at
the side of the farm was Turner’s Lane, now called
Lover’s Lane. Going towards the village on the left
hand side there was a chapel; services were held there
every Sunday and we used to hide in the hedge and
listen to the groans and music coming through the
chapel door, which for some reason was always left
open. Beyond the chapel, there was a pigsty and other
farm buildings also a cottage which was a two up and
two down in which Mr and Mrs Mileham lived, her
husband older by many years. She gave up keeping pigs
and took in lodgers instead; she also kept chickens
and we used to get our eggs from her, for, I think,
one shilling a score. They were never sold by the
dozen! Mrs Mileham’s cottage and the one next door to
it were built by the Rice family. I think Miss Rice
was Mrs Mileham’s sister and they lived next door to
each other until Miss Rice married and went to live in
Yarmouth. Rice cottages are still standing today.
Rear of Rice Cottages with the pigstys to the right.
On the other side
of the road was Staithe House, the Doctor’s house. Dr
Brown practised there in those days; he was very
popular in the village. Staithe House was so called as
the staithe was next to it and the wherries used to
come up there to collect their cargo, but the retired
doctor living in the Manor had great sway and put a
stop to the wherries coming up because they damaged
his land which was on the other side of the staithe.
So the wherries used Womack instead, but I am glad to
say this road is now officially called Staithe Road,
greatly to the surprise of visitors.
Nearer to the
village there was a tiny thatched cottage surrounded
by flowers of all sorts. Mrs Hicks lived there; she
was always dressed in black with a shawl over her head
and shoulders. I thought she was a witch and I was
terrified of her!
Further up the
road towards the village there was a row of old
cottages. Miss Brunning moved into one after her
mother died. Hers was a one up, one down. In the
cottage nearest to the village, lived a shoemaker and
his wife. They used to repair our shoes. Mr Tidman was
his name. Then there was a group of houses, they still
remain. Mrs Watson lived in one. She used to do all
our laundry. There was no non-iron fabric then. She
took the washing one week and brought it back the next
all beautifully ironed and aired. Her Christian name
was Pamela but the locals called her Pemly. After this
came Mrs Clark’s sweet shop. Clarkie as she was known
by us children. She was a great pal of ours. We used
to buy a ha’p’th of aniseed balls and she always put
one or two extra sweets in the bag. She used to fold
the paper to make the bags too. She also had extra,
extra strong cough sweets which were kept in large
green tins. We were not allowed to have them! Mrs
Clark’s husband was a painter and decorator and worked
for the firm of Dale, Riches and Clark. They had two
children, a boy and a girl.
There were some
sheds where Charlie Clark used to keep his paint etc,
and another house between the Clark’s shop and the
Post Office. George and Helen Thrower ran the Post
Office. On the other side of the road, Harry Grapes
had a Fish and Chip shop, now reverted to a private
house again. He turned it into a shop after his mother
died. It was a row of cottages. We were not supposed
to buy fish and chips from there as mother considered
them not very good. However, we did manage to smuggle
a bag of chips in now and again! Needless to say, they
tasted better than any others before or since!
The Post Office
Harry Grapes' Chip Shop
On the same side
as Harry’s shop was Powell’s Grocery shop. There was
great rivalry between the Powell’s shop and “Pop”
Thrower’s store on the other side of Potter Road. The
Powells had two very pretty daughters. Poor Mrs Powell
was killed by machine gun fire in the village in the
second World War. There was a coal merchant’s yard at
the side of Powell’s shop. It was owned by Ebenezer
Newton, Nick-named “Sneezer”. He had two sons, Arthur
and Eddie. Arthur used to collect passengers from
Wroxham station in a horse and cart first and then in
a Model T Ford which was even more unreliable than the
horse and cart! The car was tied together with bits of
string in places and in the end it just fell apart,
greatly to the relief of all who travelled with
Arthur. He had to get a new car - a second hand one
needless to say!
Powell's Stores
The Thrower’s
Shop was owned by “Pop” Thrower, who was the
grandfather of Tom who owns the shop now. He used to
rule the family with a rod of iron and no-one was
allowed to carve the ham if for some reason he was not
in the shop; we had to wait until he returned. Beyond
Thrower’s was England’s, the butchers shop. Mrs
England was a real dragon! Woe betide anyone who
complained about the meat if she served you. They had
one daughter, Millie by name. She used to sing in the
village concerts. Poor Millie used to be tied to the
bedpost if she misbehaved when she was a child.
There were more
thatched cottages, a whole row of them, where the new
houses are now and at the end of the village was
Cook’s shop, another nice thatched building, which
fortunately is still standing but is not now a shop.
Cook's Stores
There was a bus
service from Norwich to Yarmouth. It stopped at Ludham
about every 2 hours in the winter and every hour in
the summer. That has not changed much! I remember one
winter. I think I must have been about 8 years old;
there was a very heavy fall of snow. We walked to the
village with great difficulty and the snow on the road
was above my top boots - no road clearing in those
days, needless to say!
In one of the
cottages on the Potter Road lived Harriet Beevor. She
had a brother Jack who used to sell oranges during the
week and newspapers on Sundays. He walked to Yarmouth
(some 13 miles) to get the oranges, then did a
house-to-house round with them. He always picked out
the blood oranges for us children as he thought they
were the best. Harriet wrote me long letters after I
was married. She had beautiful, old-fashioned writing,
but her letters were difficult to read as she never
used a full stop! I bought a corner what-not from her
for which I paid two shillings and sixpence, my weekly
pocket money in those days. Sam Knights was the
saddler of the village. He was a fine saddler. His son
Albert took over the shop after Sam died. Albert
rather liked his drop and sang “Old Macdonald’s
Farm” when he was merry. He also had a Rolls-Royce but
had a mishap with it and was not allowed to drive any
more. He kept it in front of the shop for years, and
then had to move it as it took up too much room in the
village. It ended up in the chicken run.
Albert Knights' Shop
Albert sold just
about everything to do with farming and repairs that
were available in those days. He had heaps of nails
and screws all over the floor of his shop and he knew
where everything was. Albert never sent a bill unless
asked to do so. His reply was “Well you do not owe it
to me until I send you the bill” He must have
lost thousands of pounds!
Christmas was a
lovely time then. There were always lots of
carol-singers and, best of all, the handbell ringers.
I think they came on Christmas Eve. They all stood
round in the drawing room ringing the changes. The
noise was deafening and every now and then the leader
would shout “Up!” There was Loney who was the last of
the millwrights, pork butcher Thrower, and Fred Kemp -
he was the road-mender and was rather looked down upon
by the other bell-ringers as he was the new boy! They
were warmed to their bell ringing by whisky and
mince-pies!
More Information.
There is more about the
Dashwood-Howards here.
For the Rice and Mileham Familes click here.
For more about Ludham Shops click here.
For more about the Powells click here.
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