Helen Watson
I came
to Ludham with my family in 1926 at the age of 3, from
South Wales where my father was a miner. Due to the
miner's strike in 1926 my mother and father decided to
come to Norfolk to look for work. My mother's family
lived in Catfield and Mum and Dad met during the first
world war when Dad was stationed at Mundesley. There
were thirteen children in my mothers family and one
of her older brothers lived in Ludham at Church
View. He had offered us accommodation in a cottage at
the back of his house and possibly a job for Dad with
his building firm, Dale, Riches and Clarke. Mr. Dale
was the building man, Uncle Fred (Mr. Riches) was the
Carpenter, and Mr. Clarke was the painter and
decorator.
I cannot
remember anything about the journey except that we
arrived in the dark at Wroxham station and were met by
another uncle who had a bakery and tearooms near
Wroxham Bridge. We were bundled into a small van with
our few belongings and taken to Ludham. There was a
big yard shared by the neighbours and a very big
garden to play in. It must have been early in the year
as on Valentine's Jack Valentine came after dark
and left small presents on the doorstep. These were
attached to a long piece of string and when you went
to pick them up they were pulled away. This went on
until you were quick enough to snatch them. Another
trick was to tie door handles together, knock on both
doors and hide around the corner to watch the tug of
war. My Uncle was great fun.
We later moved to
a semi-detached cottage on the Norwich Road next to a
big white house, which stood back ftom the road and
was sheltered by a high laurel hedge. I think it was
called Eversley House and a very posh lady lived
there. A blind lady, Mrs. Knights, lived next door and
I used to run errands for her and read to her when I
was older.
We had an outside
bucket toilet which was emptied into a big hole in the
garden. There was a ditch running alongside the garden
and under a low bridge over the Norwich Road to the
marshes beyond. It was fed by water from a spring on
School Road and another spring near the little bridge.
My brother and I often fell in when we were getting
frog spawn, catching tiddlers or gathering watercress.
We gathered mushrooms in the early morning from the
fields next door.
My mother cooked
on a big black cooking range which had to be
blackleaded at least once a week and the fender was
polished with 'spit' and newspaper. The big black
kettle was always on the hob ready to make tea when
anybody called. There was also an oven in the wall
which had a large black door and three brass knobs,
and a small fire was lit underneath especially for the
baking of bread. In the summer a double Valor oil
stove was brought in for cooking. It gave off fumes
which discoloured the ceiling. My mother made wine
from parsnips, nettles, dandelions, damsons, and
elderberries in a big brown pot which stood on the
pantry floor for weeks with toast and yeast floating
on the top. It was bottled and corked and left on the
pantry floor for Christmas and special occasions.
Sometimes the corks would blow off and the wine was
everywhere. Mother also used to preserve eggs using
isinglass in a large crockery pot in the pantry. They
kept for months and came out covered with a thick
white coating. She also preserved beans in kilner jars
with layers of salt, which was washed off before
cooking.
When I was seven
my father had an accident at work. He fell off a roof
and fractured his pelvis and was taken to St. Thomas'
Hospital in London. This was a terrible time for my
mother and I know she worked hard scrubbing, cleaning
and cooking for the lady in the big house and other
people to put food on the table for my brother and
myself: She went to London once or twice to see Dad in
hospital and I think Mr .Dale paid the fare but there
was no help from the State in those days. Dad was away
for quite a long time and when he came home he was
unable to do heavy labouring. When I came home from
school I helped with the household chores and learned
to cook and at week-ends was left to see to the meals
etc. while my mother went out to work.
At this time
bread was delivered by horse and cart from a bakery in
Homing. Fish was obtained from Mr .Slaughter who lived
in the end cottage opposite the Church Room. He had a
horse and cart and sold fish around the villages.
(Incidentally his eldest daughter has just celebrated
her 100th birthdayand lives in Yarmouth) Milk was also
delivered by horse and cart in large churns and ladled
out into jugs. Mr .England was the main butcher in the
High Street. Mr. Albert Thrower had a grocers shop
next door, ( he was known as 'Pop' Thrower as he had
an old Ford Van which made a popping noise when it
started oft). Mr .Fred Thrower had a coal business and
was also a pork butcher on the Norwich Rd. near the
Vicarage drive. He killed the pigs in a large shed in
his yard, by slitting their throats and then scraping
off the hairs in their backs with boiling water and
metal scrapers. I can remember hearing the pigs
squealing and one day went to see what was happening
-it was horrible. His wife made very good pork brawn.
Mr .and Mrs.
Powell ran another grocer's shop in the High Street
opposite Stock's Hill and a Mrs. Clarke had a small
sweet shop opposite the Manor gates on Hall Common
Road. I cannot remember who kept the Post Office at
that time but George Thrower, Fred's eldest son took
it over and Mr .Harry Grapes opened a Fish and Chip
Shop in one of the cottages opposite. Mr .George
Knights had the Saddlers shop (now the Tea Rooms )
assisted by his son Albert. Mr .and Mrs. Herbert Cooke
had a sweet shop and general stores at the other end
of the High Street on the corner of Catfield Road. Mr.
and Mrs. Turner (Beulah's Mum and Dad) ran the King's
Arms and Mr. and Mrs. Warren ran the Bakers Arms on
the opposite comer .(now the village green).
My brother and I
were given l/2d pocket money most Saturdays after we
had cleaned the knives and forks, and took ages to
choose our sweets at either Mrs. Clarke's or Mrs.
Cooke's shop -bulls eyes which changed colour when you
sucked them, aniseed balls, licquorice torpedoes
(girls liked the red ones to use as lipstick), sherbet
dabs, strops of licquorice, coconut icing etc. We
played with hoops, tops, skipping ropes and hopscotch
on the road Each had a season of the year, but why or
how I do not know, it all just happened.
On Good Friday
hot cross buns would be delivered by the baker and
when the Fair came to the field on Green' s corner a
few weeks later there would be 'fair buttons' -large
ginger and white vanilla biscuits. At Easter we went
from house to house collecting eggs which the school
sent to the local hospitals. Everything had a season
or time of year, even the fruit and vegetables. There
was no pre-packed food. Meat was cut off the carcase
as required, cheese was cut from a large slab with a
wire on a wooden board, sugar was weighed out from a
drawer behind the counter and put into a blue paper
bag, biscuits were sold loose and the broken ones were
sold at a few pence. There were big bars of Sunlight
soap for scrubbing floors etc. and Lifebouy soap for
washing.
On Good Friday we
would gather primroses from the lanes and hedgerows to
decorate the ends of the pews for Easter Day. We went
to Sunday School at 10 am. Followed by Church Service
at 11 am., Sunday School again at 2.30 pm. and Church
again at 6.30 pm. we were not allowed to knit or play
games on Sundays. When we were about 8 years old we
joined the Girls Friendly Society and later the Young
Peoples Union which was a religious Youth Club for
boys and girls.
The doctor was Dr
Brown, a son of the Rector of Catfield. He had a
surgery down Hall Common Road, no waiting room so if
you were ill you stood out in all weathers until he
was ready to see you. He had a dispensary at the back
and his remedy was usually a large bottle of dark
brown liquid given to you with the comment "take this
and keep warm". He had a brother and two sisters,
Arthur, Alice and Fanny, all unmarried who lived at
Windyridge on the Norwich Rd. Fanny was a permanent
invalid and was pushed around the village in a wicker
chair with a high back and a long handle to steer the
front wheel. When I was about 8 or 9 years old I was
excused evening service on a Sunday if I went to
Windyridge to read the Bible to Fanny while Arthur and
Alice went to church. They are all buried in the
Churchyard near the Church room.
My father and
mother worked all their life in the Church. Dad was
the Verger. He rang the bells, wound the clock, sang
in the choir, dug the graves, showed visitors around
and knew almost all there was to know about the
church. Mum helped keep the church clean, cleaned the
brasses, washed the surplices and jabots, was also in
the choir, as was my brother -I didn't have the voice!
! Dad was also Clerk to the Parish Council for many
years. He was also Secretary of the St. Benet's Lodge
of the Manchester Unity Independent Order of
Oddfellows, which was a friendly society for men and
helped members when they were sick or in distress.
They paid a small amount when they met at the King's
Arms each month. Members cycled from Potter Heigham,
Catfield and Horning. They seemed to have a jolly
evening as Beulah and I would go up to the Lodge room.
knock on the door, and get the orders for her father
to take up. They later held their meetings in the
Church Room. Being the Secretary, Dad collected their
contributions, collected their sick certificates, paid
out their sickness benefit and paid the doctor, so
there was always somebody at the door, which was never
locked, night or day. The introduction of the Health
Service in 1948 took over the work of the Friendly
Societies and only a few are struggling to survive
today, such as the Oddfellows and the Foresters. There
were at the time about 100 Lodges in the Norwich
District and now there are only 5. Dad always grew
thyme in the garden and a sprig was thrown on the
coffin when a member of the Lodge died, to represent
time past and time to come.
I started school
in September 1927. There were 4 class rooms catering
for children from the age of 4 1/2 to 14 years old.
Infant teacher Miss Cushion. who later became Mrs.
Mattocks, Mrs. Richardson had the next age group, then
Mrs. Kitchener, and the headmaster Mr. Kitchener took
the older children. Each teacher taught all subjects,
concentrating on reading, writing and arithmetic. The
girls did a small amount of knitting and needlework in
Mrs. Kitchener's class, while the boys played football
and we occasionally played Rounders. Once a year a
peripatetic cookery teacher came with all her
equipment set up in the Chapel school room and a few
girls in the older group were chosen to have 2 weeks
of cookery lessons. I can still hear her saying in a
strong Scottish accent "steaming is cooking by the
vapour produced from a boiling liquid". All the
teachers were strict disciplinarians and we were
punished for any wrongdoing or inattention. I had my
knuckles rapped many times with the edge of a ruler
for giggling in Mrs. Richardson's class. I vividly
remember seeing 2 boys caned before the whole school
for smoking in the bushes over the school wall. The
school was heated by open coal fires. Toilets were
outside across the school yard, three for boys and
three for girls, separated by a brick wall. Underneath
was all open and was very smelly. Every so often it
was cleaned out via a trap door in the back of the
building- where nettles grew profusely. One day after
it had been cleaned out one of the boys crept into the
trap door with a nettle under the girls toilets and
unfortunately stung one of the teachers on the bottom,
thinking it was me of the bigger girls! ! Every year
Mr and Mrs. Boardman sent two horses and carts to take
us to How Hill for a sports afternoon, including egg
and spoon, 3- legged and sack races. At the end of the
afternoon we lined up in front of the terrace for the
presentation of prizes to the winners and the
distribution of bags of sweets and oranges to the rest
of us. We also had a week's holiday at Whitsun to go
fruit picking at How Hill, mainly blackcurrants and
raspberries so that we could earn a few pennies.
Every year
certain 10/11 year olds were selected to take a County
scholarship examination. The County awarded
scholarships and paid all expenses for one or two
children to go to a private fee-paying High School. I
took the exam at 10 years old and just failed, but was
chosen again the next year and was successful. The
exam was in two parts -a written test paper at your
own school and an oral exam at the High School. I was
the only one to go from Ludham that year and went to
North Walsham High School for Girls from 1934 -1939
when war broke out. The days were long, cycling to
Potter Heigham Station to catch the 8.20 a.m. train,
returning back at Potter Heigham at 5.20 p.m. cycling
home, tea and then homework for 3 subjects every
night. Norfolk County Council paid my parents £3 a
year cycle allowance, £10 a year uniform allowance
(very strict uniform -navy and emerald green) and the
British Legion paid for my school dinners. My parents
had a very hard struggle to pay for any extras and to
keep me there until I was 16. My brother left school
at 14 and went to a firm at Catfield to learn
carpentry. He was always jealous of the opportunity I
had. I became estranged from most of my village
friends as I had little spare time, and with living so
far from the High School with no transport, I was
unable to take part in out of school activities and
Saturday sports -my season ticket on the railway could
not be used on Saturdays.
By the time I was
8 or 9 we had moved to a three bedroomed semi-detached
cottage opposite the school so that my brother and I
could have separate bedrooms. Still bucket toilets, no
electricity and no water except from a pump at the
front door shared with the next door neighbour .I
singed my hair many times doing homework by the light
of an Aladdin oil lamp. There were tubs of rain water
at the side of the house, used for hair washing and
bathing. Friday night was bath night when a large zinc
bath was brought into the kitchen and filled with hot
water from large saucepans heated on the cooking
range. Everyday ablutions were carried out in the
bedroom with a jug of hot water brought upstairs and
cold water in a large jug in the washbasin on a wash
hand stand with a marble top. Friday night was also
the night for senna tea or syrup of figs, and viral or
cod liver oil and malt. I hated it, so my nose was
held while the medicine was shovelled down my throat.
I was in trouble if I gagged and brought it back! !
Monday was
wash-day. Dad would be up at 5 o'clock to fill the
copper in the outhouse and light the fire underneath
to boil the whites, which were then washed and rinsed
in the big bath tub, put through the wringer -a heavy
iron structure with wooden rollers -and then hung on
the line to dry. Extra dirty clothes were scrubbed on
a wash board in the bath. Reckitts blue was used in
the rinsing water for the whites. Dad's white collars
were dipped in starch and rolled in a towel until
almost dry ready for ironing. There were usually two
heavy irons heating on the range so that there was
always a hot one to complete the job when the ironing
took place on Tuesday. On Monday we always had cold
meat and bubble and squeak left over from the Sunday
roast as washing took nearly all day, and on Tuesday
we had shepherd's or cottage pie to use up the left
over meat, when the ironing was done. Friday was
always the day for baking, when Mum made enough cakes
and pies to last the week, buns and shortcakes by the
dozen, and occasional sponge, apple and rhubarb tarts
etc. We had a pantry with some stone shelves and stone
floor to everything was kept cool. There was also a
small window- no glass -but covered with a perforated
zinc sheet to let the air in, and outside was a wooden
shutter to close up in cold or windy weather. I cannot
remember when electricity was installed, but water was
not laid on until after 1955, probably about 1957 as I
had left home by then. I cannot remember when the
night cart or honey-cart was introduced to empty the
toilet buckets -they called either late at night or
early morning once a week and we knew when they had
been ! !
I never remember
being bored. Up to the time when I went to High School
we rarely left the village -perhaps went to Yarmouth
on August Bank Holiday Monday as a special treat, but
I hated the crowds, so being small Dad carried me on
his shoulders. Sunday School Treats varied -sometimes
to Caister by coach for a shrimp tea and later by
train to Cromer or Mundesley. I spent many hours with
my uncle in his carpenters shop with a piece of wood,
some nails and a hammer, Uncle Fred had ready made
coffins in the basement under his workshop which
fascinated me,or in the blacksmiths shop next door
watching Mr. Anderson shoe the horses or working the
bellows to blow up the furnace, also watching Mr
.Knights in his saddler's shop making harness, collars
and saddles for the local farms, or sometimes at
Mattocks' farm taking the "elevenses" out to the
fields or putting the swedes through the mangle
machine for cattle feed. Summers always seemed to be
hot and sunny. August was spent in the harvest field
riding the horses or chasing rabbits with a big stick
as they ran out from the corn when the combine
harvester approached. Farm workers were paid 30
shillings a week and lived mainly in tied cottages, so
when they received the extra money after extra hours
harvesting they went to Norwich or Yarmouth to buy
their new clothes for the winter.
Winters were very
hard. We often had snow 3 or 4 feet deep which drifted
off the fields, blocking the roads. Nearly all the
farmers had a snow plough in their barn and came out
to help clear the snow. Womack froze over and it was
frequently cold enough for the river to freeze and for
those with skates and enough energy they were able to
skate to Potter Heigham and Thurne Mouth. I often woke
up to scrape frost off the window and break the ice on
the washing water in the jug in the bedroom. We had
beef suet puddings, spotted dick, jam roly poly to
keep us warm so we did not get cold or obese as most
children walked 1 to 2 miles to school what ever the
weather. Chicken was rarely eaten during the year it
was usually kept for Christmas, but beef, pork and
mutton must have been relatively cheap as we had these
regularly. Cars were few and far between but there was
a regular bus service between Norwich and Yarmouth,
every hour in the summer and every 2 hours in the
winter. We walked or cycled everywhere and thought
nothing of cycling to the villages around when we were
a bit older with no fears whatsoever .
The village
policeman, Mr. Sissons, was a great force in the
village. He lived in one of the tall houses in the
Street near England's Butchers Shop. He was greatly
respected and we dare not be caught scrumping apples
or doing anything naughty as the greatest punishment
was for him to tell our parents what we had been doing
and the punishment was meted out at home. Together
with the Headmaster , the Vicar and the Doctor , these
were the most highly respected people in the village
and had a great influence on village life. There was
another Mr .England (nickname Loney- short for Lionel)
who lived in a bungalow next door to a wooden house
where his son Albert lived. They were wheelwrights and
looked after the windmills in the area. I think the
garage now stands on the site. Mr. Brooks had a garage
next to the King's Arms and a showroom on the Catfield
Road almost opposite the Chapel.
New comers were
looked upon with suspicion and it took years before
they were accepted. My father was only accepted
because he was Fred Riches' brother-in-law and my
mother was, of course, local, having been born at
Catfield.
As I have been
writing this, all sorts of memories have come flooding
back, including the Walls and Eldorado ice cream carts
on a Sunday afternoon in the summer -one had the
slogan "Stop me and Buy one" but I cannot remember
which one it was. My friends Rita Newton, (I see her
occasionally in Yarmouth), Brenda and Eileen Cullum.
Audrey Temple, Olive Watson, Gladys Grimmer, Gladys
Gibbs, Dreda Thompson, Helen Sheldrake (died at the
age of 36). Although I have been a widow since 1955
and my mother died at the age of 58 in 1954, I am
grateful for the life I have had, for my daughter and
grandchildren, for my many friends and the ups and
downs that God has thrown at me, compared with some,
although hard at times, I have had a good life and
would not wish to be a young person today.
I was married at
Ludham Church. My husband and mother are buried there.
My only regret is that my father's ashes were not
buried or scattered in the churchyard as he spent so
much of his time there. He was cremated at St. Faith's
Crematorium and his ashes left there by his second
wife.
I hope some of
this will help you to understand life in the village
from 1926 up to 1939. The War period is another story
but, no doubt there are plenty of people in the
village who can remember those years.
Mrs. Helen
Watson. nee Skillern
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